Veronica Leoni Steps Into Calvin Klein’s Legacy Without Hesitation

Inside a nondescript building in New York’s Garment District, Calvin Klein himself waited patiently for a fashion show to begin. 205 West 39th Street—the brand’s longtime headquarters—served as the venue for a highly anticipated moment: the return of Calvin Klein Collection under its newly appointed creative director, Veronica Leoni.

At 83, Klein was as charismatic as ever, mingling with an audience that included both longtime muses and new faces, such as Kate Moss, Christy Turlington, and FKA Twigs.

A Historic Appointment and a Bold Debut

The runway was set, with an open-floor, carpeted space emblazoned with the Calvin Klein logo—a fitting stage for Leoni’s first collection. This marks the brand’s first Collection runway show in six years, following Raf Simons’ departure.

With a resume that boasts The Row, Jil Sander, Phoebe Philo’s Celine, and her own label Quira, Leoni is not only the first woman to helm Calvin Klein Collection, but she also faces the challenge of reviving an iconic label, one that helped define modern American style.

And Klein himself was watching from the front row.

Refined Sensuality and Precise Tailoring

As Kendall Jenner, Binx Walton, and Selena Forrest walked the runway, the collection’s direction became clear—a strong yet restrained sensuality.

The first look, a monastic black sheath dress with long sleeves and a high neckline, set the tone. From there, elongated wool coats in soft grays and crisp whites, sculpted skirt suits with sharp shoulders, and angular pinstripe tailoring offered a fresh perspective on power dressing.

Leoni’s mastery of precision tailoring was evident in fluid front-panel shirts, oversized trenches, and curve-hugging dresses that explored texture and movement. A standout moment? A gold paillette-covered maxi dress, shimmering with every step.

Leoni expertly mixed materials—cashmere, satin, brushed cotton, and gabardine—balancing structure with ease. One corset dress cleverly played with deconstruction, its surface appearing artfully peeled away at the back, while pajama-inspired sets and scarf jackets exuded a relaxed confidence.

For accessories, Leoni introduced structured shoulder bags and refined pumps, practical yet sophisticated pieces for the modern Calvin Klein woman. Denim made a subtle appearance, styled with checked shirts—a nostalgic nod to Brooke Shields’ legendary 1980 Calvin Klein Jeans ad, where she famously purred:

“You know what comes between me and my Calvins? Nothing.”

Balancing Heritage with a New Vision

Backstage, Leoni reflected on her process, revealing that she explored the archives but avoided excessive nostalgia.

A playful CK One perfume-shaped minaudière bag paid homage to the brand’s iconic fragrance, yet Leoni emphasized that her goal was not to dwell on the past.

“I didn’t want to get stuck in something too focused on history,” she explained. “I wanted to take over as if Klein had just stepped away and handed me the keys.”

Looking confident and energized post-show, Leoni greeted guests wearing a pair of gold tailor’s scissors on a slashed fabric necklace—a subtle nod to craft and reinvention.

“I feel like King Kong today,” she joked. “It felt like the right moment to change the conversation around Calvin Klein Collection and flip the point of view.”

Redefining Calvin Klein’s Signature Sexiness

Leoni’s vision for sex appeal moves beyond the obvious. “To me, sexiness is an attitude,” she said. “It’s not about silhouettes or skin exposure—it’s about confidence.”

That confidence is embedded in Calvin Klein’s DNA. The brand has long distilled minimalist sensuality, from powerful tailoring to effortless fragrances and provocative ad campaigns.

Now, under Leoni’s leadership, Calvin Klein Collection enters a new chapter—one where a woman is shaping the next era of this American fashion institution.