In a remarkable nod to her muse—an architect’s quaint abode nestled in the south of France—Roksanda Ilinčić left spectators enthralled with her showcase at Tate Britain.
Earlier this month, Zendaya graced a Dune: Part Two photocall in London, donning a striking mulberry-hued three-piece ensemble—coat, midi, and trousers—all masterfully crafted by London-based designer Roksanda Ilinčić. What many may not have realized was that this ensemble had yet to make its debut on the runway. Yes, preceding the Mugler metal robot suit, there existed a “before the runway” moment, as Zendaya’s “image architect” Law Roach pointed out.
On February 17, Zendaya’s attire took center stage as the opening look for Roksanda’s Autumn/Winter 2024 showcase at Tate Britain—a departure from the norm for designers who seldom unveil pieces of their new collections before the official show date.
“It’s truly intriguing for the fashion realm because typically everything remains under wraps, awaiting the grand reveal on show day, but I don’t think anything could overshadow Zendaya wearing it—it was an incredibly special moment,” remarked Ilinčić, who was recently honored with an MBE from Princess Anne for her contributions to fashion.
Inspired by her sojourns to Swiss-French architect Le Corbusier’s 12-square-foot vacation cabin in the south of France, Ilinčić crafted her Autumn/Winter 2024 spectacle—a collection of dramatic gowns and contrasting textures paying homage to the monumental murals adorning Corbusier’s diminutive entryway. The runway showcased elongated skirts, sweeping trenches, and sculptural bustier dresses featuring exposed zippers that enveloped the body entirely. Some seams were deliberately left raw—a nod, perhaps, to the unfinished charm of the petite dwelling on the Cotê d’Azur. However, the show’s pièce de résistance undoubtedly was a voluminous fringed cape, boasting four-and-a-half meters of vibrant fabric and requiring Roksanda’s atelier 200 hours to meticulously craft.
“Occasionally, inquiries arise regarding the hefty price tags attached to certain pieces,” she explained in an interview. “There exists a delicate balance between art and fashion; when we infuse more of the artistic process, it comes with a price. We eschew AI—nothing can supplant the hand and the heart, I’d venture to say.”
Indeed, nothing could supplant the significance of Zendaya’s AW24 prelude.
Witness highlights from Roksanda’s Autumn/Winter 2024 presentation below.
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In essence, Roksanda’s AW24 collection, ignited by Zendaya’s prelude, transcended mere fashion—it became a testament to artistry, inspiration, and the unyielding bond between creator and muse.